Found in the shadow of the little known peninsula of Crohy Head just to the south of Maghery Village lives the Arch Stack known as Bristí (or Bristé) which translates to trousers. (or breeks) This 25 metre high sea stack lives 100 or so metres from shore and provides an ideal introduction to sea stack or adventure climbing.
Summit view from the top of Bristi Stack
The logistics of an ascent of Bristi Sea Stack
1: Brísti Stack lives in one of the most exposed streches of coast, being open to all sea states from south through to west.
2: The grassy approach slopes are very steep to the raised shingle storm beach opposite the stack.
3: The nautical approach to the stack involves a 50 meter sea passage. (The coast here is very exposed to Atlantic swells)
4: The rock on the stack is good BUT your situation causes everything to appear a wee bit more atmospheric than it actually is.
5: The ropework on the stack requires a wee bit of thought as it is not conventional esp on the summit ridge pitch of the Landward Arete
6: A 50 meter single rope will see you up and back down again.
The above are just a few thoughts on climbing this stack, it's location out to sea from Crohy Head coast is idyllic and this wee bay has been a photographers favourite for over twenty years. It is always worth bearing in mind that the actual climbing is by far the easiest part of your day with the logistics of actually getting to the base of the stack and off course returning to land being the crux of your day.
Bristi Stack was first climbed on the 9th June in 2011 as a roped solo using the rolling clove hitch rope technique. This first route takes the deep corner groove on the south west corner of the stack and has since been freesolod on many occations. The second route to be climbed was on 19th June 2012 and this takes the left facing open book corner on the north west tip of the stack. Both these routes climb the sea ward face of the stack and start on a reasonably sheltered tidal platform at sea level. The third route climbed on the stack takes the landward face was climbed with Niamh Gaffney anf ended up as an article in the Irish Times.
Arch Stack 4a 25m
Grid Ref B708075, 1 KM to the south of Maghery Village, this stack outstanding wee Arch stack provides an excellent day out. Climb the southern edge sea ward face by the overhung right facing groove and follow the shallow corner up the centre of the slab to a wee niche below a head wrecking steepness. Step right above BIG AIR and climb the steep right facing corner to the salvation of the summit.
If you are alone at this point your mind will be in tatters! :-)
I. Miller 09/06/11
North Route VS 4c 25m
Climb the left facing corner at the Northern edge of the sea ward face step right at the top of the corner onto a sub summit ledge. Pull onto the summit at the wee vegetated niche.
I. Miller, W. Schuessler 19/06/12
Ned Gaffney’s Perch Svr 29m
This route takes the landward face of the stack, starting on the large tidal ledge at the southern side. Climb the steep crack trending right to join the vegetated ramp to the summit.
I. Miller, N. Gaffney 21/06/13
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