Gola Island (Gabhla) sits 3 kilometres to the West of Derrybeg in the Rosses area of Western Donegal and is easily accessable by a short ferry crossing from Magheragallon. Gola Island is the the centerpiece of Donegal climbing locations, with immaculate granite sea cliffs, perfect wild camping and a superb sandy beach to play on.
The climbing on Gola is predominantly on 25m single pitch sea cliffs with most of the sea cliffs having huge sea level ledges at their bases. If the seas are too choppy for the sea cliffs there are two excellent inland cliffs high and far from any rough seas.
The above picture was taken from the summit of Easter Crag and shows all the main crag locations on the island.
Eglish Valleysit in the southern Blue Stack mountains and is easily accessable from Donegal Town in the South of the county. The valley provides many different types of routes mainly on single pitch mountain crags. The Gatepost cliff is approx 30mins walk from the car and provides many outstanding rock climbs of perfect clean granite. The Gatepost can be used to aid in the location of all the other crags in the valley as they are all easily located from this cliff. The best crag in the valley is the Outpost with provides many excellent single pitch routes with breathtaking Donegal mountain views in all direction.
The above panoramic view shows the cliff locations and was taken on the normal approach path.
Malinbeg is one of the original climbing locations in Donegal and was a fore runner of what was to be discover on our coastline in the proceeding years. The climbing at Malinbeg is on immaculate sea washed Quartz with vast majority of the climbs in the sub extreme grades. The cliffs at Malinbeg have the perfect aspect to act as very efficient suntraps and climbing is possible all year round, when you combine this with a five minute walk from the car, Malinbeg continues to be a popular location 30 years after climbers first visited here.
The above two panoramic shots show the main crag locations starting at the Northern end with Neptunes Wall and working our way south to the far tip of this excellent coastline.
Cruit Island in the heart of the Rosses, Western Donegal is one of the most developed rock climbing locations in Ireland with over 350 recorded climbs mainly in the sub extreme grades all within a few minutes walk from the car. The coastline of cruit Island is quite simply one big sandy beach with 25 perfect 10 to 20 metre high granite sea cliffs dotted thoughout its perimeter.
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