The Glenveagh national park is a beautiful and impressive place to climb, it's main face dominates this huge U shaped valley. It is also Donegal's busiest tourist attraction with a large visitor centre, restaurant and an excellent refurbished Glenveagh Castle. This very busy end of the glen provides the most obvious access to the climbing available in the glen. Simply park and follow the crowds around the visitor attractions, once at the cafe in the castle, continue out along towards the huge loch. From here follow the lochside road for approx an hour to a small bothy on your left. Cross the stream by the stepping stones outside the bothy and make a KM long rising traverse to the base of the cliff.
An alternative approach and one which is a lot less crowded, from the R254 Doocharry to Churchill road, there is a small roadside parking place at Grid Ref B972158. From here simply follow the path down in the stunning Glenveagh, after approx 1km the path becomes an untarred road which takes you the full length of the Glen to the Castle and visitor centre. As you descend into the Glen the huge main cliff looms over you on your left. From here cross the stream and make the same KM long raisinf traverse to the base of the cliff.
Trying to approach the base of the cliff from anywhere else along the lochside road will result in a swim and a knee deep wade through very wet bog.
This huge mountain crag suffers a wee bit from lack of traffic and were the effort put in for a crag clean this location would provide some of the best mountain crag routes in the country and the possibility for further development and potential new routes is enormous.
Alternative mountain crags and locations in the area are Poisoned Glen, Bingorms / Lough Barra or Muckish Mountain. For all other rock climbing locations in Donegal visit Undiscovered Donegal.
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