Muckross Head is a very unusual crag composed of horizontally bedded sandstone interspersed with thin bands of mudstone that have been eroded faster and have produced the characteristic overhangs that make the rock climbing here strenuous. The climbing is in the main steep and strenuous and although the rock is generally excellent, the last meter for so along the top of the crag does require a wee bit of care.
The grade range of the routes is from Diff to E7, with the vast majority of the routes above E1, so bring strong arms with you. At high tide with a heavy South West sea rolling in, the platforms at the base of the crag can become submerged very quickly. If large seas are swamping the crag there are several further climbing venues to the west along the coast, Sail Rock, Malin Beg and Glencolmcille.
The climbing on Muckross Head lives above a very large tidal huge platform. Too much south-west sea running and the entire platform can and will be under angry white seawater, mid to low tide is best when large seas are running.
The crag is prone to seepage especially Spring and Autumn when the crag will get less direct sunlight and the flat ground above is still saturated.
The top of the crag tends to be a little bit crumbly and there are few natural anchors. on your first visit, it is best to have a walk along the top of the crag to check the necessary stakes are in place at the top of your planned routes.
