The Poisoned Glen is one of the original climbing venues in Ireland with routes dating back to the 1950's and 1960's. The glen also plays host to Ireland largest continual rock face (The Bearnas Buttress) and Ireland longest Ice climb. (see Donegal Winter climbs guidebook) Most of the faces in the glen face North to North West and as such get very little sunlight, a prolonged dry spell is required to catch the main faces in a dry climbable condition.
The highest crag is also the fastest drying, Ballaghageeha Buttress sits at an altitude of 400m and provides excellent single and multi pitch climbing. It has in recent years seen a lot of attention from local climbers and as such most of the routes are freshly cleaned.
Access to the Glen is by foot from either Dunlewey or the Lough Barra road side, both approaches take approx an hour to reach most crags and the ground underfoot is very boggy and pathless.
The Poison Glen catches all the moisture brought into Donegal by the North Atlantic Drift and it can be a very wet place indeed. If the glen is wet a few alternative places to climb are The Bingorms, Glenveagh or Muckish Mountain BUT these locations are prone to the same climatic downpours as the Poison Glen. If is raining in the Derryveagh Mountains then head to the coast and into the Donegal rain shadow the best two places to visit are Crohy Head or Cruit Island.
For all the other rock climbing locations and further free PDF guidebooks covering the entire county of Donegal visit Undiscovered Donegal.
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