The huge flat topped mountain of Muckish dominates the landscape in the north West of Donegal. It is it's north face that holds most interest for rock climbers as the north face of this mountain is simply one huge steep sided corrie. The corrie offers both summer and winter climbing with almost all of Donegal's hard winter routes living high on the walls of this north face.
The corrie holds the old glass sand mine workings and affords easy drivable access to the very base of the mountain. Access up to the three crags is by the old miners path and provides quick access to these high north facing crags. Being north facing this venue requires a day or two of dry weather as the entire corrie is prone to seepage which off course, makes for a superb winter venue but tends to limit days available for summer rock climbing.
Approx. 2km out of Creeslough, on the Dunfanaghy Rd, turn left opposite graveyard and follow this road, which becomes unmetalled, as far as you can. McSwyne’s Buttress is high up on Muckish, to the left of the prominent stone chute. Access is by a faint zig-zag track to the left of the chute. Due to its location, this crag should only be climbed after a period of reasonably dry weather, and is best in the evening.
Both the main butresses, McSwynes and Balors lie directly behind the old quarry working up high and left as you stand at the roadend. The third crag is up high and right and is loacted in the steep broken ground centered around a monster of a cave.
The nearest alternative venues are Cnoc an Affrain and Downings which provide suitable places to play if there has not been a long enough dry spell prior to your visit. For all other rock climbing venues in Donegal visit Undiscovered Donegal.
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