Owey Island (Eastern End)

Added: 2011-11-04
Landing on Cladagharoan Sea Stack

 The north coast of Owey Island contains a superb collection of seven single pitch sea stacks.

 Access is by the clifftop walk north along the coast from the wee harbour and campsite at the south east tip of the island. All the stacks require abseil approach to sea level and varying lengths of sea passage. The north west coast of Owey is prone to monster sea motion and 40 footers of crashing green is a common occurrence along this coastline. 

 The first climbing location is found after following the coast for approximately 400m until you are facing the south face of the spectacular  "Tor Lice Riseach." (the rock of the flags of thong weed) There are currently only two recorded routes on these two spectacular stacks, and there is room for many more. The sea cliff facing on to the stacks have seen sporadic development  over many years and there is a range of recorded routes from Severe to E2. All routes require an abseil approach, thankfully the cliff tops are solid and suitable anchors are plentiful. 

 Follow the coast for a further 600m up and over the wee summit and descent down to the clifftops overlooking Cladagharoan, the bay of Seals. This outstanding wee bay is hemmed in on it's north side by a spectacular rock ridge containing an excellent sea arch. The bay is hemmed in to the south by a wall of unclimbed 50m sea cliffs.

 Sitting out to sea facing the southern end of the bay is a 30m sea stack whose land ward face holds a route at severe up a groove at it's northern end. The sea ward face of the stack provides excellent blocky scranbling to its summit.

 The star attraction of Cladagharoan is without doubt "Stackamillion" a very pecarious looking needle stack in the centre of the bay. This stack was first climbed by two visiting Polish climbers in 2003 by a steep E2 groove at the top of the land ward slabs at the base of the stack. The climbing is excellent and very absorbing taking you to a very small summit stance and a perfect abseil block for the descent.

 A further 300m along the coast and in a much more innaccessible loaction is two excellent sea stacks at the base of a perfect 50 slab. The more obvious "Big Block" stack or Cosceim (step) sits 30m out to sea from the base of the slabs and requires a very calm sea for safe landing. To the south of "Cosceim" is an excellent 15m spire who lives in a very difficult to access location as the confliction tides around it's base make for a very atmospheric approach under most sea conditions.

 The 50m slabs on the sea cliffs on the mainland of Owey facing these two stacks contain three excellent routes on near perfect granite. They require an abseil approach and great care with prevailing sea conditions.


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