Owey Island (Western End)

Added: 2011-11-04
Fracture Stack

 At the southern end of Owey Island lives a superb collection of single pitch sea stacks and off shore islands.

 Access is by walking across Owey along the only road through the wee village and continuing to the far southern end of the island overlooking this collection of sea stacks. They can all be accessed by scrambling to sea level in the wee recess with the huge Torglass island (the largest island in this area) on your left as you face out to sea.  From here it is a short sea passage out to the bases of all the stacks. Nature and Neptune have kindly provided huge sea level platforms on all these stacks.

 The north face of the huge Torglass, contains but a single route to it's grassy summit. "Forked Lightening," E1 5B 20m **, the route climbs the strikingly obvious forked lightening crack in the centre of the island's north face. Climb the crack via a chimney to start onto a ledge and continue up the crack as it zig-zags it's way up the face.

 Immediately to the north of Torglass sits the shapely wee 16m pinnacle called "The Lady of Owey." This excellent wee spire repelled several attempts to gain it's summit over two summers. It finally received an ascent at HVS 5B via a ramp and groove up it's north west face.

 Sitting about 50m to the north again is a big square block of granite called "Fracture Stack," by the first ascent party, due to one of the party members breaking a wrist in the persuit of happiness. This stack contains two summits which can be viewed from mainland Owey. The higher parent summit currently contains two recorded routes to it's summit. One route up the sea ward face at severe and one route up the land ward face at V.Diff. The secondary summit is a much more technical proposition and involves subterranean scrambling to reach the platforms beneath it's sea ward. The route to it's summit takes the steep wall in the centre of the towers north face at E1.

 Slightly to the north of "Fracture Stack," is a further 20m high stack/island. It's land ward face holds a perfect wall of immaculate sea washed granite. This wall currently contains two routes and has the potential for many more. Access to this stack requires a little care as the channel to the south is prone to huge sea swells due to the funnelling effect of the close proximity of "Fracture Stack."    

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